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Enchilada history

Enchiladas, a Culinary Monument to Colonialism | History Today

Rooted in Aztec Culture 

Corn tortillas – or tlaxcalli in Nahuatl (Nahuatl, Aztec, or Mexicano is a language or, by some definitions, a group of languages of the Uto-Aztecan language family. Varieties of Nahuatl are spoken by about 1.7 million Nahua peoples, most of whom live mainly in Central Mexico and have smaller population in the United States) – had been made in southern Mexico for several thousand years and had been a staple of Mesoamerican cuisine for centuries before the Spanish conquistadors arrived in the New World. At first, they were probably used as nothing more than an edible plate or spoon; but in time they came to be eaten as a wrap – often with a sauce or flavorings. As early as the preclassical period (c.2000-250 BC), the Maya of the Yucatán Peninsula are known to have dipped corn tortillas in pumpkin seeds, rolled them around a chopped, hard-boiled egg and then covered them in a rich tomato sauce. But the Aztecs were the first to develop the first ‘true’ enchilada. As its Nahuatl name, chīllapīzzali (literally ‘chilli-flute’), suggests, its most distinctive ingredient was the chilli pepper. This was ground up to produce a spicy paste, into which tortillas were dipped, then filled with beans, squash, fish, game, or eggs.

As Díaz’s account suggests, these early enchiladas – like tamales – were highly prized by the Aztec nobility. But they were also enjoyed by the common people and could be bought in markets throughout the Empire. All of these could be eaten with a range of sauces, some of them terrifyingly hot.

But the conquistadors were content to appropriate much of its cuisine – including enchiladas. From the Spaniards’ perspective, they were unusually appealing. Not only were they tasty, but they were also simple to cook – and could even be eaten on the march. They could also be adapted to Spanish tastes relatively easily. New ingredients were added, including cheese, pork and chicken; and spicy sauces came to be used in preference to the chilli paste which had previously been the sine qua non of the Aztec version.

It started to shed its former associations altogether. Now seen as neither Spanish nor Aztec, it gradually took on the air of a distinctively ‘Mexican’ food – and, by the time independence was eventually declared in 1821, it had become the closest thing the new country had to a ‘national’ dish. Indeed, when the first Mexican cookbook was published in 1831, the author, Cristina Barros, was so proud of it that she included not one, but two separate recipes.

But enchiladas were not to remain purely ‘Mexican’ for long. When the US annexed Texas (1845), California and the South-West (1846-8), Mexican dishes began to find their way into American culture – laying the foundations for what would eventually become known as ‘Tex-Mex’ cuisine. Enchiladas were at the forefront of this process. Cooked on makeshift stoves, or bought from roadside stalls, they quickly became a favourite lunch food among hard-up farm hands and factory workers. To accommodate different tastes and budgets, they were also given a distinctive twist. Meat became less common; inexpensive, locally grown ingredients, such as lettuce and onion, were added; and the importance of chilli was somewhat reduced.

Americans, of course, were judgy, rude, and cruel about the cuisine from Mexico. Though Mexicans lived and worked alongside Americans of all stripes on the frontier, they continued to be regarded with hostility by European settlers and coastal elites. This found expression not only in crude racial slurs, but also in disparaging attitudes towards Mexican cuisine – especially enchiladas.

Not until the early 20th century did enchiladas gain wider acceptance. Although anti-Mexican sentiments continued to run high in some areas, increased migration to northern states coupled with greater prosperity and the growing importance of cities with particularly large Mexican populations – such as San Antonio – had conspired to mitigate the disdain felt for Mexican foods by the end of the First World War. In the early 1920s, enchiladas were being served in a growing number of restaurants, especially in southern states, and – heaped with a more lavish selection of ingredients – had at last become the object of culinary desire.

Soon, people were clamoring for a taste. Among them was Louise Lloyd Lowber, a budding food writer. In 1921, she admiringly described how enchiladas were prepared at the ‘famous Enchilada House in Old Albuquerque’ for well-heeled readers. A tortilla, she recounted, was first placed in the middle of a large plate,

then a flood of rich, red chile and more cheese, sprinkled between in layer-cake fashion, and the whole topped off with a high crown of chopped onions in which nestles an egg, which has been broken a minute into the hot lard. An artistic and cooling garnish of lettuce – and behold an enchilada.

Recipe Source

Isabel eats for steps/process 

https://www.isabeleats.com/red-chicken-enchiladas/

Manjula's Kitchen for sauce and veggie ingredients 

https://www.manjulaskitchen.com/vegetable-enchilada/

Becca also kinda fudged with the cheeses in the below to match a few other recipes 

Ingredients 

Tortillas: 

8 corn or flour tortillas

Sauce: 

1 can 15 oz can crushed tomatoes

3 tbsp oil

3 tbsp all-purpose flour

1-1/2 tsp red chili powder

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tsp cumin seed powder jeera

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp black pepper

1 cup water/broth

Veg Filling: 

1 tbsp oil

3 cups spinach chopped

1/2 cup corn, Manjula is using frozen (G got canned)

1/2 cup mushroom chopped

1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese shredded

1/2 cup monterey jack cheese shredded

1/2 cup Asadero or Queso fresco or Oaxaca cheeses

OR 

1 1/2 cups Mexican blend cheese 

For Topping:

1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese shredded

1/2 cup monterey jack cheese shredded

optional toppings: chopped jalapeno, diced onions, chopped cilantro, sour cream, shredded lettuce, cotija cheese

Special Equipment 

Blender for sauce 

Baking dish 

Steps

Sauce: 

1. Blend the tomatoes to make a smooth puree. 

2. Heat the sauce pan over medium heat and add the oil and all-purpose flour, stir for one minute until flour is light golden brown. (making a roux)

3. Add tomato puree, oregano, salt, sugar, black pepper, red chili powder, and cumin. 

4. Mix it well making sure there are no lumps. 

5. Add 1 cup of water/broth and boil over medium heat for about 2-3 minutes, the sauce should thicken to pouring consistency. 

6. Set aside.

Veg Filling: 

1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat, add the vegetables

2. Cook stirring until moisture has evaporated but the mix should be still moist. 

3. Remove from heat and add about 1/4 cup of enchilada sauce, mix it well. 

4. When vegetable mix comes to room temperature add the cheese and mix it well. 

5. Set aside.

To Assemble: 

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

2. If using corn tortillas: Wrap the tortillas in a damp paper towel and heat them in the microwave for 30 seconds, flip, heat for another 30 seconds or until warm and pliable.

3. If using flour tortillas: Microwave the tortillas on a plate for 1 minute, flipping them halfway through until all are warm and pliable.

4. Assemble the enchiladas by filling each tortilla evenly with the veggie mixture. 

5. Roll the tortillas tightly to close and place in your baking dish with the seam side down.

6. Pour the remaining enchilada sauce over the tortillas, top with the remaining shredded cheese, and bake for 20 minutes until the cheese is melted and bubbly.

7. Serve immediately and garnish with desired toppings.